One final funny

Just had to share this poster I saw in the hotel.

Yes, it seems golf can help your hunting ability. I also liked the ‘Photos are for reference only’ subtitle.

The bridges of Japan

Flying back was in daylight and less cloudy than the way out. As you all know, Japan is made up of many islands, so not surprisingly it has a lot of bridges. Some look pretty big too…

Getting back

So long as your flight isn’t too early, the tourist thing to do is to take the maglev to the airport. Unfortunately its terminal is out of downtown at Long Yang Lu (though rumors persist about bringing another terminal closer in). So get a taxi or take the metro if you’re feeling brave.

Then, you can take a photo like this.

Not that it stays at 431km/h (269 mph) for very long – the entire journey lasting about 7 minutes. It’s also a bargain at 50RMB – some people take a round trip to the airport even if they aren’t flying.

At the airport, Pudong now has two terminals. The new one is a lot more streamlined, though no doubt as more airlines come online it will get busier and the more distant gates will come into play.

As always it provided a few laughs too (yes airports can be funny)…

I never worked out quite how the lounge was ‘dedicated’ and it also reminded me of the line in ‘Lost in Translation’ where Bob is surprised at how short his interpreter’s translation is compared to the Japanese spoken by the director. Ok, he said it better than me. And no the ‘L’ hadn’t fallen off, it’s a brand new sign – I felt it too, it was never there.

Just in case anyone is thinking I’m being a little cruel, just take it from me that Chinese (even my colleagues who have the utmost respect for me) have no qualms about laughing at foreigners and how funny they seem trying to make their way with Mandarin.

At a new year’s party I was once taken on stage and made to sing Chinese pop songs that were playing through some headphones. And yes, the audience had to guess what I was singing. I have to say I did remarkably well.

… but I digress. I also had a good laugh at these floor arrows:

At first I thought they were an attempt to keep people walking in the same direction and avoid collisions. Except their placement seemed inconsistent and indeed conflicting (e.g. opposite direction to the moving walkway). And why illuminated rather than permanent?

Eventually I realized they were directing people to ‘something’. The something being the exit or stairs or a restroom or an elevator… And here lies the flaw in the plan – you don’t know in advance what the something is.

If you ever make it to Pudong airport, have a look and tell me if you have a better explanation :)

Shanghai Science Museum

In Pudong, just on from Century Park is the Science Museum.

If you’re not into science, you might still want to go here to buy clothes – a sizeable underground mall with dozens of vendors hangs off the metro.

Assuming you are into science, don’t go on a Monday as it’s closed, except national holidays, except some of those… maybe just don’t go on a Monday is the best bet.

Inside you can choose from theater attractions (spaceflights and the like) on the museum proper. If you’re lucky there might be a special exhibition like this one…

Impressively they also had this one, barely seen in the US I believe…

Downstairs are some shops – take a look just in case there’s something of interest as it will cost 10 times as much at the airport.

Where to eat

A really good resource for Shanghai in general is www.smartshanghai.com. On here you'll find maps, reviews and more importantly Chinese Taxi instructions to print. Most drivers don't understand English (look for the 'stars' on their ID sign) and pinyin (the romanization of Mandarin) isn't pronounced the way most English speakers would pronounce it :)

If you don't believe me, pinyin 'xie' (xie xie being thank you) is pronounced something like 'sheer', rather than, well, whatever you think it might be pronounced as. Ever wondered why Chinese spell Ping Pong as Ping Pang? Don't get me started on tones...

For foreigners who don't want to eat Chinese cuisine (a gross over simplification since Shanghainese food is very different from that of Sichuan or Tibet) go to Hengshan Rd. Just go there...

On Hengshan itself are hotels (like the Regal) or pretty good TexMex (Zapatas) or reasonably authentic Italian (Pasta Fresca da Salvatore - nice traditional pizzas). Be careful with some of the bars as you may be expected to buy the wait-people a drink or more. Just say no if it gets uncomfortable...

Off Hengshan are some gems IMHO. Vedas on Jianguo Xi Lu is the best Indian Restaurant on the planet. Going to Vedas is one of the highlights of going to Shanghai for me. I would go to Shanghai just to get a good Indian meal at Vedas... so long as someone else is paying for the airline ticket.

The ambience is understated, yet the large window to the kitchen lets you watch your Naan get needed and stretched. The food is good too of course, a perfect balance of spices... try the Samosas and the Shahi Paneer and the Malai Kofta.

North of Hengshan, just off Huahai is Arch. A little pretentious in some peoples' opinions, now a little quieter as they have another outlet. I like Arch as the food it varied, reliable, good staff and they have a good cocktail menu :)

In XuJiaHui (Metro City, the domed thingy - Meilo Cheng, pronounced May-low-chung) you'll also find Starbucks and L'arbre de Provence (varied vegetarian).

A taxi ride from Hengshan is XianTianDi, a tourist hangout and has good Thai food, French and Cantonese. Shanghai Center (Portman-Ritz) has California Pizza Kitchen and Element Fresh.

Where to stay

Perhaps before diving into what to do, I should have said something about options on where to stay...

In the luxury range ($250 and up) you have a few options (check out one of the links on the left for actual rates). In Pudong, there's the new SWFC or the Grand Hyatt in the Jin Mao - not sure it still is, but it's claim to fame was the world's highest hotel atrium. Reminds me a little of the Death Star.

Around People's Square is the JW Marriott.

And at the Shanghai Center (Nanjing Xi Lu, not far from the Jing An Temple) is the Ritz Carlton. Around $150 you can find some pretty good hotels around XuJiaHui - I tend to end up at the Regal on Hengshan, but watch out for the $25 breakfast!

Driving in China

Don't.

Don't do it.

Don't let it enter your mind for the merest millisecond of a possibility.

One of the things I noticed this time in Shanghai was more traffic. This seems to have had the beneficial impact of slowing people down on the roads. I say beneficial as many, especially those in the thousands of taxis think they are racing drivers. Or in one of those adverts with 'Do not attempt' splashed as a subtitle...

Aside from the speed, it's the aquaplaning, last minute breaking and trying to shove fellow drivers into the wall which are most worrisome.

I don't always fear for my life though, after all, there is very little evidence of accidents. I put it down to ESP which probably means the interview for taxi drivers involves reading cards. That and stamina as many drivers work very long shifts.

Out of the cities, it can be worse. I was on a minibus in rural China - we drove at a constant 80km/h. This was irrespective of conditions, straights, corners, blind corners. To achieve this the driver would often cross to the other side of the road.

As I often explain to first time visitors, lanes, signs and traffic lights are purely advisory.

A new record

The Shanghai World Financial Center is finally complete. China's tallest building, overtaking its neighbor, the Jin Mao by 70 meters. Though in this photo the older pagoda looks a little taller.

 

The SWFC was supposed to have a circular hole at the top, but it was felt to be 'too Japanese' at a time when China was remembering the painful recent history of occupation. I was in Shanghai in 2005 when Japanese restaurants were being attacked and eaters being shouted at to leave.

Here's some earlier photos, first no tower, then under construction...

 

LuJiaZui in Pudong (the new side of Shanghai, much of it being farms and fields 20 years ago) is home to much of Shanghai's financial horsepower. Lots of skyscrapers, though perhaps the most famous structure is the Pearl, which somehow follows you around...

Getting there

A side effect of the modern economy, there are now many ways to reach China. I took NWA first to Tokyo and then on to Shanghai's Pudong airport. Next year, we'll have direct flights to both Shanghai and Beijing from Seattle.

First traveling north over Lake Washington with Bellevue to the east and Mount Baker to the north.

We then headed west over the sound and past the Olympics where there is still some traces of snow on the peaks.

Around Japan, there was the inevitable cloud and turbulence.

Aside from the visa shenanigans, entering China has actually got a little easier - just an entry card (like the US I94) and that's it. There used to be a health form (do you have anything contagious - answer yes and you'll be quarantined) and a customs form.

Return to the middle kingdom

So I finally did manage to get a China Visa and spend a week in Shanghai. Mainly business, but I have few posts to write still...

NWA at it again

Another bonus mileage promotion:

http://www.nwa.com/offers/mountainsofmiles/

No games this time to earn extras though.