Nightlife, Tokyo style

If you enjoy a bit of nightlife, then Tokyo will fit you like a glove. So much choice, so much variation, wacky to offbeat and of course, Karaoke.

Golden Gai (or Golden Street) consists of over 200 bars crammed into a few streets behind Shinjuku station. Open from late to the early hours and seating literally a handful of people at a time, each with their own style and character. It’s kind of like the Beijing Hutongs, though their history is interesting and their very existence challenged over the years.

Speaking of wacky, on our way to our first bar, we passed the power rangers, dressed head to toe, complete with colored fabric face masks. No cameras in sight, so I guess it was just some folk out for the night.

First stop which we knew as ‘mama san's bar’ was a little uneasy at first – just for locals – until one of our Japanese friends explained that one of our crew had  been there before and had played guitar for the 80yr old chain smoking owner. Her face lit up and we were welcome (we also got hugs and kisses on departing). Beer (or Jack Daniels) was served with ice cut from a foot square block out of the freezer.

The ceiling was adorned by a (Monty) Pythonesque cat of dubious proportions and walls covered with posters for the local comedy circuit including some which paid tribute to the owner with her bright lipstick and signature cigarette.

Next stop was a Harley Davidson theme bar called ‘Twin’ or maybe above ‘Twin’ - it wasn’t clear. By theme, I mean to take it with a little salt – there were certainly some references, though some were more tenuous like license plates and some were tacky like those proverbial route 66 signs. There were also bobble heads on the bar and figures from the crypt.

There was also Karaoke – it’s so much easier to take part when the bar only seats six people.

On another night I discovered what is now my ‘local’ in Tokyo – the Bar Hermit.

It actually seems to be a small chain, but I’ve been trying the one just off the main road to the station behind the Soccer Shop – about 5 blocks from the metropolitan buildings. If you like Scotch, this is the place for you with over a 100 different malts to choose from starting at around $10. Open till 4am it’s a nice way to round off the evening. Depending on when you get there, there may be a 500 yen cover charge (about $6 at today’s exchange rate) so doesn’t make sense for just one drink.

Curiously a beer is the same price as a single malt where as in the US, a good malt is probably in the same ballpark as here – $10 and up. The strengthening yen is making it more expensive – for so many years it was 100-110 to the USD but it’s now closer to 84. One big difference is the lack of tipping and tax is usually included so comparing menu prices needs to take that into account.

Another thing to do at night is head up the observatory in the metropolitan building – it’s free and open till 11pm (check as it may be seasonal). Aside from the views you can get a cocktail or dinner from the little bistro.