Tokyo Tower

Clearly inspired by Eifel, Tokyo Tower is visible from much of the city, at least high up. Frankly I find it a little ugly, especially the base which holds gift shops; food court; an aquarium; wax works and Guinness world records Tokyo. The area around is a little hit and miss too, but then its primary purpose is a radio and TV mast so location wasn’t driven by beauty.

It’s really a tourist trap with no photos allowed of the exhibits and a combo ticket will set an adult back $25 though if you just want to see from the observatory, it’s about half that. There’s also a curious dog sculpture.

For me, the still active Zojoji Temple across the road was more interesting, it’s also the last resting place of several Shoguns.

It’s actually quite modern for the most part (think about it), but they kept up the traditional designs and integrated some detailed carving. You can also get some tea if you are lucky to find the tea house open.

The main building is where the ceremonies take place – lots of gold inside and statues and monks chanting…

Towards the far gate are some more sculptures and a water bath.

There’s also a tree left by George HW Bush when he was VP – looks a little worse for wear…

Finally an interesting lantern on the gate.

A little further down the road was another gate with some intricate detail…

My lost in translation moment

Director [in Japanese, to the interpreter]: The translation is very important, O.K.? The translation.

Interpreter [in Japanese, to the director]: Yes, of course. I understand.

Director [in Japanese, to Bob]: Mr. Bob. You are sitting quietly in your study. And then there is a bottle of Suntory whisky on top of the table. You understand, right? With wholehearted feeling, slowly, look at the camera, tenderly, and as if you are meeting old friends, say the words. As if you are Bogie in Casablanca, saying, "Here's looking at you, kid," -- Suntory time!

Interpreter [In English, to Bob]: He wants you to turn, look in camera. O.K.?

Bob: Is that all he said?

Lost in Translation is one of my favorite movies, perhaps thanks to having lived or worked in Asia for the last six years and seeing it as a partial reflection of my time here. So of course, in Tokyo I needed to take a pilgrimage to the Park Hyatt where much of it was filmed. From the outside it’s kind of unassuming but clearly a tall building – a little different in that it’s not a single tower, more staggered…

Inside it starts to take on a grander style – first with the shared lobby (it’s part office block with the hotel on top) and then the elevators up to the hotel featuring dog heads or masks depending on which one you take.

From the 41st floor lobby, aside from the café view, there’s some upscale décor…

But of course, the destination I was headed for was the New York Bar on the 52nd floor – looks a little different from how I remember it so will have to get out the DVD when I get back.

And of course the great view – surprising how much green there is in a city that is thought of as being crowed with no room to move.

Finally after a $65 meal (well two drinks and a salad – it would be another $24 if you stay after 7pm on Sunday or 8pm on other days thanks to a 2000 yen cover charge) I headed down to watch the sunset behind the distant mountains from the 41st floor…

Outside again you can see a fountain, the tower in a mirror ball or from the metropolitan tower observatory.

Is that Bob Harris I see?

Nightlife, Tokyo style

If you enjoy a bit of nightlife, then Tokyo will fit you like a glove. So much choice, so much variation, wacky to offbeat and of course, Karaoke.

Golden Gai (or Golden Street) consists of over 200 bars crammed into a few streets behind Shinjuku station. Open from late to the early hours and seating literally a handful of people at a time, each with their own style and character. It’s kind of like the Beijing Hutongs, though their history is interesting and their very existence challenged over the years.

Speaking of wacky, on our way to our first bar, we passed the power rangers, dressed head to toe, complete with colored fabric face masks. No cameras in sight, so I guess it was just some folk out for the night.

First stop which we knew as ‘mama san's bar’ was a little uneasy at first – just for locals – until one of our Japanese friends explained that one of our crew had  been there before and had played guitar for the 80yr old chain smoking owner. Her face lit up and we were welcome (we also got hugs and kisses on departing). Beer (or Jack Daniels) was served with ice cut from a foot square block out of the freezer.

The ceiling was adorned by a (Monty) Pythonesque cat of dubious proportions and walls covered with posters for the local comedy circuit including some which paid tribute to the owner with her bright lipstick and signature cigarette.

Next stop was a Harley Davidson theme bar called ‘Twin’ or maybe above ‘Twin’ - it wasn’t clear. By theme, I mean to take it with a little salt – there were certainly some references, though some were more tenuous like license plates and some were tacky like those proverbial route 66 signs. There were also bobble heads on the bar and figures from the crypt.

There was also Karaoke – it’s so much easier to take part when the bar only seats six people.

On another night I discovered what is now my ‘local’ in Tokyo – the Bar Hermit.

It actually seems to be a small chain, but I’ve been trying the one just off the main road to the station behind the Soccer Shop – about 5 blocks from the metropolitan buildings. If you like Scotch, this is the place for you with over a 100 different malts to choose from starting at around $10. Open till 4am it’s a nice way to round off the evening. Depending on when you get there, there may be a 500 yen cover charge (about $6 at today’s exchange rate) so doesn’t make sense for just one drink.

Curiously a beer is the same price as a single malt where as in the US, a good malt is probably in the same ballpark as here – $10 and up. The strengthening yen is making it more expensive – for so many years it was 100-110 to the USD but it’s now closer to 84. One big difference is the lack of tipping and tax is usually included so comparing menu prices needs to take that into account.

Another thing to do at night is head up the observatory in the metropolitan building – it’s free and open till 11pm (check as it may be seasonal). Aside from the views you can get a cocktail or dinner from the little bistro.

Risky Roppongi?

Tokyo has a rep for being one of, if not the safest large city on the planet. It feels it, even walking around at 3am (more on that later) seems safer than many cities during daylight. Culturally, crime is a such a big no-no. So perhaps it’s not surprising that foreigners seem to be behind the biggest issues right now.

Wandering round the busier nightlife areas, if you’re a guy, there’s every chance that a tout (though I think of them more as pimps) will take you by the arm, maybe call you ‘brotha’ to break the ice and try and lead you off to a bar. Obviously there’s a cost involved and the US embassy is warning ex-pats to avoid Roppongi after some drink spiking and huge charges appearing on credit cards…

So as usual, if it sounds to good to be true it probably is – take care out there…

http://articles.latimes.com/2010/jan/26/world/la-fg-japan-roppongi26-2010jan26

A little information… can be really frustrating

A common trend I see in this part of the world is a sprinkling of the English language. I don’t mean an English sign here, a Chinese one there, but the odd English word inserted into an ocean of Japanese. Like being in a subway station and the map might say ‘subway map’ but everything else will be in the local lingo – you know, it being a map and being located in a subway, that’s one thing I was already certain of.

Here’s another example…

It get’s you hooked in with ‘first of all’ and then what? Does it say first of all in Japanese too? Or are the locals required to understand this smattering of English?

Should I be concerned, is it a warning of potential consequences to my health if consumed? It is after all chili sauce.

While we’re on food, I visited a place called Trattoria Volontiers for dinner. Inside I was offered a drinks menu which was both English and Japanese – great! It seems to be the custom that you are first offered the drinks menu and only then given the food menu when you order a drink.

The food menu was back to exhibit A – each section was titles in English – Antipasto; Risotto etc. but then the dishes were only in Japanese. Having had an English drinks menu I enquired about the equivalent for food – no we don’t have one of those was the reply. The irony is the drinks menu was much bigger – just one page of food.

But is doesn’t end with food, transport is another area.

This is clearly telling me something interesting about the Shinkansen (bullet train), maybe a great deal about somewhere I might want to go, but the only English is right at the bottom.

It’s a warning about hazardous items – so you think we’re still reading at this point? Well ok, I am, but that’s simply to prove a point.

 

With this one, I’m on the fence – there does seem to be more Japanese than just ‘Don’t stay here’ so is it saying ‘this isn’t somewhere to stay overnight’ or something like ‘this is Godzilla’s favorite hang out, so probably a good idea to move on’.

Or maybe it’s all just a big joke to keep us ignorant foreigners frustrated…